So the Michelin challenge starts! I have never been so excited and nervous at the same time to just eat at a restaurant. Its food...why the heck should any one be nervous. As a person who likes to cook, each of these Michelin star restaurants is like going to meet a famous sports star, an amazing music artist, or someone you look up to as the golden standard. Now, on top of that if there was a ranking system to them, wouldn't that put even more glitz and glamour to the whole moment; in my mind the 3 star signifies that you are the best, an echelon above the rest, and carry a mastery in the art of culinary.
I love Japanese food and believe it is one of the top cuisines. It's cleanness/lightness on the palate and emphasis on freshness has always impressed me like a very fine luxury suit. Now the typical foodie is thinking, all these fancy metaphors and what not imagery, is just unnecessary words, sushi is sushi right? I mean besides the cutting, and the grade of the fish, there is not much room for any type of wow factor right? I have eaten at a lot of Japanese restaurants across the US, Hong Kong, as well as several visits to Japan, but Sushi Shikon, by Executive Chef Yoshiharu Kaikinuma, is some next level shit.
Let us begin!
A table for one please! January 31rst 2019 12:00pm. Lunch Nigiri Course: Seasonal Appetizer, 12 Sushi pieces , Dessert, HK$ 1,800 per person (Plus 10% service)
When you dine alone, getting into anywhere is quite easy. I believe I only booked about 2 weeks in advance.
Walking in...
When I first walked in, a grin came across my face as it resembled the setting from a foodie favorite documentry "Jiro dreams of sushi". Small, low key, a bit hidden? This chef must mean serious business! Thank goodness none of the nonsense loud noise greeting and yelling like every other typical Japanese establishments.
I was a bit early for the lunch setting, which was really nice as I got to see Chef Yoshiharu Kaikinuma do some light preparation prior to cooking.
The menu is an omakase, but there are also a few items off menu that you can order on spot. My rule of thought: How often will you eat here? Your already splurging, just say yes to the extras, and get the full 100% experience.
Finally it was 12:00! Sat next to me was a quiet gentleman around my age who looked like a seasoned eater; little did I know, he was! Guy was a foodie with an inner circle of sushi connoisseur, more to explain as I eat. To my memory I believed his name was Chang (If you are reading this Chang and it is not your name, my apologies!)
At first I was a bit hesitant and embarrassed to take out my small black notebook to take notes on each dish, but a few minutes in, I thought, who the hell cares, this experience is for me! I want to remember this and capture each detail!
The meal started out quiet. Chef Kakinuma working away, and serving dishes. In the back you hear the quiet shuffle and preparation of his team.
It was the second dish that changed everything. The second course was a cut of braised octopus, that looked easy and simple. Did not seem super impressive, but as soon as, I took a bite ,I was awed. This is what I imagined Michelin dishes should taste like. Chef Kaki must have saw my eyes light up and my face crack a smile. He stopped for a second, and looked up at me. Finally the silence was going to break, one, I had to know him know this tastes damn amazing ,and two, I needed to know how this is made. From the very little experience I have in the kitchen, I knew it was braised by pressure cooking, but because of the tenderness, I thought it must have taken all morning.
Me: "This is amazing! So good! How is it made? I mean you must have pressure cooked this forever!"
Chef: How long do you think?
Me: "Maybe 4-5 hours? Its just so tender!"
Chef looks at Chang waiting for his response and chance to chime in.
Chang ( a bit broken english) : "maybe 2 hours?"
The waitress stops what she is doing and wants to hear the Chef's answer. I am sure the whole restaurant staff knows the answer already, but they all eavesdrop to enjoy the answer like an old classic story.
Chef replies with a small laugh : "no just 30 min"
Wow that was super anti climatic...
Me: Thats it?
I mean in that case damn near anyone can do it, I thought.
Chef follows: "I massage the octopus with salt for 1 and half hours, and then braise it with..."
He made it sound so simple that anyone could do it or there was nothing to it, but deep down copying it was easier said than done.
Me: This is amazing. It tastes like the perfect braised beef. I could eat it all day.
The sake must have finally started to kick in, as I was feeling relaxed and comfortable. It felt like he was my bartender who I went to visit everyday and spill my guts. I could ask him anything. Here was my chance to ask everything I ever wanted to learn about what made these chefs so amazing. I felt like Anthony Bourdain.
One of my many aspirations if I could choose a different career would have been pursuing a career in culinary. But enough about me, more about Chef. As the dishes came out more dialogue continued. The cat was out and there would be no more silence.
Me: When did you start cooking? I've always heard stories about chefs needing to train their whole life to reach the highest level.
Chef: My father was a chef, and before him was my grandfather.
Me: That's awesome! Your a family of chefs, did your grandfather pass it on to your dad, and then your dad pass it on to you?
Chef: Actually... no. My father would not teach me and said that if I wanted to be a chef I had to develop my own style.
Comments